Long lived tree or shrub in frost free areas. Transplant within 2 weeks of arrival, or bump up into a larger cell until you can transplant. Should be kept above 55F in the seedling stage. 2-3' if growing in frost-free environments. Young growth can be prone to wilting. Allow growth to "harden" on the plant before cutting. A hydrator and conditioning in the cooler may help if you are having trouble with wilting. Mildew and botrytis can be problems in wet/damp conditions.
Most Eucalyptus seed is harvested in its native Australia. Due to the increase in frequency and severity of Australian bush fires in recent years, the seed supply is dwindling worldwide. Consider growing in a high tunnel if you can keep it frost-free. Eucalyptus is slow to establish in its first year, but if you can keep it alive it will grow very rapidly in its second and third years, providing taller and more abundant cutting material. Cut back hard in the fall.
Sometimes, it’s just useful to take the lazy approach, right? Like propagating cuttings in water. Yeah, you’ll read a lot online about how you should dip cuttings in rooting hormone and place them in a sterile medium, waiting several weeks to see if the roots are growing. But sometimes, it just works to put them in water and see what happens. Some plants are pretty reliable rooters in water.
The first pic here shows some perennial morning glory that we swiped from a neighbor’s yard while out on a walk (they have a HUGE fence full of the stuff, so a few little tip cuttings can’t hurt, right?) and curly willow branches that came with a bouquet, and Santia noticed roots forming in the vase. I was pretty sure the morning glory would root easily (it’s so vigorous), and willows are always easy to sprout in water. In the next pic, we’re experimenting and trying to get some eucalyptus cuttings to root. These are tip cuttings with new spring growth from two small eucalypts in our front garden. We bought them last year, sold as Eucalyptus gunnii ‘Steel Tower’ which is listed to only get 2-3 feet tall. Well, ours are now 6-7 feet, but we also had 2-foot zinnias get 6 feet tall last summer, so maybe it’s our good flowerbed soil. I’ll be watching them this year to see if they look like they were mislabeled and actually will become large trees. If so, they’ll have to come out. Love the neighbors, but we want to hide their big trailer!
But on the chance that they’ll stop growing much taller, I’ve taken the cuttings and may use them as a hedge to block out the view of our neighbor’s camper trailer. They’re great neighbors, but their big trailer now lives in the front yard next to our too-short rose hedge on the edge of the front yard. If the eucalyptus cuttings work, we may be planting them as a tall hedge to keep our garden pics looking lovely. I’ve done this lazy cutting propagation so many times, and it usually works pretty well. Wish us luck on the eucalypts!
Oh, BTW, if you do go the distance and try rooting cuttings in some kind of sterile medium or potting mix, try using clear plastic cups as your pots (with a hole in the bottom for drainage). That way, you can see the roots when they develop, and you won’t have to worry about whether you’re ruining the cuttings by tugging on them to test whether roots have formed. You’re welcome!
Quick Facts
- Evergreen trees or shrubs
- Grown for their ornamental foliage and bark
- Most are hardy and easy to grow
- Plant in spring or summer
- Like sun and well-drained soil
- Prune to keep to a manageable size
Before you get started
What are eucalyptus? They are evergreen trees or shrubs, mainly from Australia. There are many species, of various sizes, to suit most situations. They usually form elegant specimens that work well as focal points. The leaves are generally blue-green or silvery, with a menthol-like fragrance. There is usually a juvenile leaf form that is often disc-like, while adult leaves tend to be long and pointed. Coppicing can keep plants producing juvenile foliage, which is popular for flower arrangements. Eucalyptus can be highly ornamental, in shades of grey, brown, green, pink and white. In some species it forms a multi-coloured mosaic, as the outer layer peels off in patches or strips to reveal new hues underneath. The flowers are small petal-less pompoms of white or cream stamens (occasionally yellow, pink or red). They are rich in, attracting bees and other pollinators. They appear at various times of year, depending on the species.
Choosing the right eucalyptus
Eucalyptus make striking specimen trees with year-round appeal - eye-catching bark and evergreen, grey-blue leaves. They generally have a light canopy that doesn't cast deep shade, despite being evergreen. Some can grow quite tall, ideal for large or medium-sized gardens, while others form shrubs or compact trees or even containers. Eucalyptus can grow rapidly, especially in the initial years - typically 1m (3⅓ft) or more annually. Still, they can be pruned to keep them compact. Always check the eventual height before buying, to ensure the plant won't outgrow its space. To explore the range of species, go to RHS Plants. Search for 'eucalyptus' to browse the photos and plant descriptions, and find out where to buy them.
How and what to buy
cider gum (Eucalyptus gunnii) snow gum (E. pauciflora subsp. niphophila) mountain gum (E. dalrympleana). Plants are sold at various sizes, but smaller specimens - up to 1m (3⅓ft) tall - tend to settle in more successfully.
Planting and care
Eucalyptus thrive in full sun. Most also grow well in well-drained conditions, and most soil types, including poor soils. Shelter future sites from cold, drying winds. Large containers, ideally 60cm (2ft) or more in diameter. Most species dislike cold, frost-prone sites, shade, waterlogged soil, and exposed locations. With larger-growing species, plant them well away from buildings, as they can dry out the soil, especially in heavy clay. See our guide to trees near buildings. When to plant: Plant eucalyptus in spring and summer, so they have plenty of time to get established before winter.
How to plant: Eucalyptus trees are easy to plant and should settle in quickly, especially if you buy smaller specimens up to 1m (3⅓ft) tall. Planting in the ground: Don't enrich the soil with manure or garden compost, as this will encourage too much leafy growth. There is also no need to stake young, small plants - they will develop stronger roots if unsupported. Take care to plant them in the right position, as they dislike being moved once settled in. For full planting instructions, see our guide to planting trees. Planting in a container: Use a peat-free compost, such as soil-based John Innes No 2 or No 3. To improve drainage, mix in plenty of horticultural grit (up to 30 per cent by volume). For full planting instructions, see our guide to planting in containers.
Ongoing Care
Water: Water newly planted eucalyptus well, to help them settle in. After that, for the next few years until well rooted, you should only need to water during dry spells. Subsequently, watering isn't generally necessary. Many established specimens are drought tolerant. In containers: Keep the moist throughout the grow season. Make sure it doesn't become too dry; reduce watering in winter. Feeding: Most established trees growing in the ground don't need feeding. However, it can be beneficial to feed eucalyptus that have just been hard pruned, particularly if the tree isn't growing strongly. An application of Vitax Q4 or pelleted poultry manure in spring will give them a boost. In containers: Feed monthly with a general-purpose liquid fertiliser throughout the growing season (April to September). Re-pot every two years into a slightly larger container with fresh compost.
Weeding and Mulching: For the first few years after planting, maintain a circle of bare soil around the base of the trunk to reduce competition. Once settled in, dense planting around the base can help to restrict growth by limiting rainfall reaching the roots. Mulching with chipped material helps hold moisture and deter weeds. Leave a gap around the trunk to discourage rot. Overwintering: Widely available species are generally hardy and need no protection over winter. For container plants, move them to a sheltered spot, such as against a warm wall, and raise containers on feet to improve drainage. Caring for older plants: Eucalyptus trees are long-lived and healthy if grown in suitable conditions, needing little ongoing care. If they become too large, you can pollard or coppice them to reduce size. Pruning and Training: Generally, established eucalyptus need little pruning, but on newly planted specimens some initial pruning may help form a good shape. Coppicing or pollarding every few years can limit size. To keep juvenile foliage for ornamental use, consider methods that promote juvenile growth.
Propagating Eucalyptus
The best way to make new eucalyptus plants is to grow them from seed, as many species are difficult to root from cuttings. To grow from seed: Collect when the seed capsules split easily. For hardy species, refrigerate seeds at 3-5°C (37-41°F) for two months. Sow seeds in mid-February into deep pots, and avoid root disturbance. Use peat-free media and provide bottom heat if possible. Transplant to permanent positions by mid-summer for best establishment.
Starting eucalyptus trees from cuttings can be attempted, though more challenging. For cuttings: Choose 4 inch (10 cm) long mature shoots during June/July and dip the bottom tips in rooting hormone briefly. Use a sterile medium such as perlite, keep the cuttings moist, and cover with a plastic bag in a warm location. Maintain rooting temperatures around 80-90°F (27-32°C) and provide at least 200-400 hours of light per month. Cuttings should have at least one bud; if there are leaves, remove extra leaves to reduce transpiration. The medium should be kept moist but not waterlogged, with weekly fungicide treatment and slow-release fertiliser as needed. In temperate climates, cuttings are less reliable but can work with controlled environments such as mist propagation units or micropropagation facilities.
Common issues
Eucalyptus suffer from a few problems: Eucalyptus gall wasp, oedema from waterlogged soil, and honey fungus attacking the roots. Monitor for galls on leaves and manage moisture carefully. In dry climates, wilting can occur in young growth, so ensure consistent hydration and consider hydrating conditioning during cooler periods. Mildew and botrytis can also arise in damp conditions, so good air movement and proper spacing help reduce risk.
There are variations in propagation approaches across climates. In tropical climates, cuttings root and grow quickly, with plants ready for field planting within two to three months. In temperate climates, the process takes longer, and cuttings may be taken year-round except mid-winter. A typical eucalyptus cutting is about 30 cm long with 2-4 nodes. Use a fungicide dip and a light IBA treatment to encourage rooting. The rooting substrate can be sand, vermiculite, sawdust, pinebark, or pumice, and cuttings are kept under plastic in a greenhouse with substrate temperature around 20°C. Regular light and occasional fertiliser support rooting progress.
How to propagate Eucalyptus via cuttings UK
In summary, eucalyptus can be propagated from seed reliably, while cuttings offer an option to clone desirable forms with careful attention to juvenile growth, rooting conditions, and climate. Keeping seedlings warm and well-lit, avoiding root disturbance, and managing moisture are key to successful propagation and establishment.